Florentines are justifiably proud of their robut food,
claiming that it served as the basis for French cuisine
when Catherine de Medicis took a battery of Florentine
chefs with her after she reluctantly became queen
of France in the 16th century. You can sample such
specialties as creamy fegatini (a chiken-liver
spread) and ribollita (minestrone thick-ened
with bread and beans and swirled with extra-virgin
olive oil) in bustling, convivial trattorie, where
you share long wooden tables set with paper place
mats. Like the Florentines, you can take a break at
an enoteca (wineshop and/or wine bar) during the day
and discover some little-known but excellent Chiantis
and Super Tuscans.
Every region of Italy has a distinct, timetested cuisine
that's a source of pride equally felt in family kitchens,
modest trattorias, and sophisticated restaurants.
What Italians hold in common is a respect for the
pleasures of the table: They take the utmost care
in creating staples - bread, wine, cheese, and olive
oil are just the beginning of the list - and build
their cuisine from there. Another shared characteristic
of Italian food is a tendency to revere the most humble
ingredients; chef will devote the same attention to
day-old bread as to priceless truffles. There's often
a hint of the exotic on the menu, but the more exotic
an item seems to you, the more likely it is to be
distinctly local in origin.
A typical Tuscan repast starts with an antipasto of
crostini (grilled bread spread with various
savory toppings) or cured meats such as prosciutto
crudo (cured ham thinly sliced) and finocchiona
(salami seasoned with fennel). Primi piatti
(first courses) can consist of local versions of pasta
dishes available throughout Italy. Peculiar to Florence,
however, are the vegetable-and-bread soups such as
pappa al pomodoro fresco (bread-and-tomato
soup), ribollita, and, in the summer, a salad called
panzanella (tomatoes, onions, vinegar, oil,
basil and bread). Before they are eaten, these are
often christened with un C d'olio, a generous
C-shape drizzle of the sumptuous local olive oil.
Unparalleled among the secondi piatti
(main courses) is bistecca alla fiorentina
- a thick slab of local Chianina beef, often seasoned
with olive oil, salt, and pepper, grilled over charcoal,
and served rare. Trippa alla fiorentina
(tripe stewed with tomato sauce) and arista
( roast loin of pork seasoned with rosemary) are also
local specialties, as are many other roasted meats
that pair especially well with Chianti. E secondo
is usually served with a contorno (side
dish) of white beans, sautéed greens, or artichokes
in season, all of which can be drizzled with more
of that fruity olive oil.
|
|
Amorosa
Sinalunga
|
Le
Coccole dell'Amorosa
Loc. Amorosa
0577 677211
Closed Monday, Tuesday. No lunch.
|
This
inn occupies the 14th century stone and brick
hamlet of Amorosa in the hill just south of Sinalunga.
The restaurant is located in the old stables. The cuisine
is made from the numerous products from the farm. It's
excellent. The selection of wines from the region is also
nice. The chef excels at fish dishes as well as home made
pastas and beef. They're also a cheaper enoteca
where you can sample a full range of wines from Siena
province accompanied by regional dishes.
*****
|
|
Arezzo
|
Buca
di San Francesco
Via San Francesco 1
0575 23271
Closed Tuesday, 2 weeks in July
|
A
frescold cellar restaurant in centuries-old building next
to the church of San Francesco, this cellar doesn't seem
to have changed much from the Middle Age: Etruscan-roman
floor stone in a 14th century palazzo. The restaurant
has been run by the same family for over 70 years: they
like to keep the memory of old flavours in their dishes.
You can choose from several straightforward local specialties.
Remarkably good wine list.
****
|
|
Arezzo
|
La
Lancia d'Oro
Piazza Grande 18/19
0575 21033
Closed Sunday for diner, Monday
|
This
pleasant restaurant set under the Loggia Vasari
in the historical Piazza Grande serves Tuscan and classic
cuisine. Wines from the region and all over Italy.
***
|
|
Artimino
|
Da
Delfina
Via della Chiesa 1
055 8718074
Closed Monday
|
Set
amid vineyards and olive trees Delfina is a charming restaurant
on a bluff overlooking the Arno below Florence. Mamma
Delfina oversees the entire operation in this heaven of
Tuscan cooking. It has 4 comfortable dining rooms where
the cooking highlights pure ingredients seasonal vegetables
and savoury meats accented with herbs. Every thing comes
from the family estate (vegetables, eggs, poultry) and
is homemade. Notably: the pappardelle. An
address to note.
****
|
|
Barberino
|
Il
Paese dei Campanelli
Loc. Petrognano
055 8075318
Closed Monday
|
An
old cantina (wine-storage building) surrounded
by glorious garden where summer meals are served houses
one of Chianti's top restaurant. Typical Tuscan recipes
fill the menu, but there are also some creative variations
using exquisite ingredients, especially seasonal mushrooms.
The duck comes rare, and the salad are work of art, but
all the dishes are presented with artistry. Make reservation
well in advance.
****
|
|
Castellina
in Chianti
|
Antica
Trattoria la Torre
Piazza del Comune 15
0577 740236
Closed Friday
|
The
longstanding family tradition of serving fine cuisine
mode with local product is continued here.
**
|
|
Castellina
in Chianti
|
Antico
Ristorante Pestello
Loc. Antonio al Ponte
0577 740215
Closed Wednesday
|
Very
good traditional Tuscan cuisine in a rustic atmosphere.
Typical specialties. Local wine. Summer terrace.
**
|
|
Castellina
in Chianti
|
Al
Gallopapa
Via delle Volte 14/16
0577 742939
Closed Monday
|
Traditional
Tuscan food and innovative cuisine. Good wine list both
local and national.
***
|
|
Castellina
in Chianti
|
Albergaccio
di Castellina
Via Fiorentina 63
0577 741042
Closed Sunday
|
The
fact that it can only seat 35 dinners at a time is one
of the nicest thing about eating at this small restaurant.
The every-changing menu mixes traditional and creative
cuisine and is accompanied by an excellent wine-list.
There are some real seasonal treats here, including zuppa
di funghi e castagne (a mushroom and chestnut soup).
You can dine alfresco on the terrace when it's warm.
***
|
|
Castellina
in Chianti
|
Osteria
alla Piazza
Loc. La Piazza
0577 733580
Closed Monday
|
In
the middle of a vineyard 15 km north of Castellina, with
one of Chianti's most spectacular views, sits this restaurant.
It's worth the drive into the countryside to relax on
the terrace, enjoy the sophisticated menu and, certainly
the delicious desserts.
***
|
|
Castelnuovo
Berardenga
|
Da
Antonio
Via del Chianti 54
0577 355321
Closed Monday. Non lunch Tuesday.
|
Antonio
serves fresh fish dishes - only - in the heart of Chianti.
There's a high level wine list. Wine both local and from
all over the world. In summer time you can dine outdoor
in a veranda.
***
|
|
Castelnuovo
Berardenga
|
Bottega
del 30
Loc. Villa a Sesta
Via Santa Caterina 2
0577 359226
Closed Thursday, Wednesday. Non lunch.
|
A
very popular restaurant in the region (with one Michelin
star to reward Hélène Camelia) so it's best
to reserve. Fine Tuscan cuisine complemented by the fine
wine list. Impeccable service.
***
|
|
Cerbaia
|
La
Tenda Rossa
Piazza del Monumento 9/14
055 826132
Closed Sunday lunch, Monday lunch and August
|
Restaurant
with a very high reputation. One of Italy's finest restaurants.
Savoury cuisine prepared with the freshest ingredients.
The sophisticated wine-list is comprehensive and pairs
beautifully with the food. Excellent gourmet-restaurant,
internationally know for the supreme quality. Pricey.
****
|
|
Certaldo
|
Latini
0577 945019
|
A
good restaurant where the inhabitants of Certaldo like
to go to eat outside. Reasonably prices.
**
|
|
Certaldo
|
La
Saletta di Dolce Folie
Via Roma 3
0571 668188
Closed Tuesday
|
Wine
shop and inn. Small place with only seven tables. Good
food and a great quality of wine selection, all desserts
are homemade.
**
|
|
Certaldo
|
Osteria
del Vicario
Via Rivellino 2
0571 668228 - 668676
Closed Wednesday
|
In
the historic centre, next to the Palazzo Pretorio. Once
a monastery, now: upscale bar restaurant and inn. Traditional
and innovative Tuscan cooking is served elegantly along
with a wide selection of wines in the restaurant. In warm
weather you can dine in the open-air cloister and enjoy
a view of the countryside.
***
|
|
Chiusi
|
Ristorante
Zaira
Via Arunte 12
0578 20260
Closed Monday, mid Jan to June and Oct. Nov.
|
Try
trota in carpione (marinated trout) as an
appetizer, before passing on to the justifiably famous
house specialty, the tasty pasta del lumacone
(ziti baked with ham and three types of cheese in a ceramic
casserole). Try coniglio al limone (rabbit
kissed with lemon) or anatra al vino nobile
(duck cooked in red wine). Ask to visit the rambling wine
cellars which house more than 20,000 bottles.
****
|
|
Colle
Val d'Elsa
|
Antica
Trattoria
P.zza Arnolfo di Cambio 23
Colle Basso
0577 923747
Closed Tuesday
|
An
institution. Small menu, few tables but outstanding Tuscan
cuisine. Reserve. Refined décor in and a beautiful
terrace where the meals are served in the summer.
****
|
|
Colle
Val d'Elsa
|
Ristorante
Arnolfo
Piazza XX Settembre 52
0577 920549
Closed Tuesday, Wednesday, August
|
The
sublime dishes here daringly straddle the line between
innovation and tradition almost always with spectacular
results. Possibly one of Tuscany's finest restaurants
deep in the heart of the hills of Chianti. Reservations
recommended.
*****
|
|
Cortona
|
Ristorante
Il Falconiere
Loc. San Martino 370
0575 612679
Closed Monday
|
The
old limonaia of this 17th century estate,
was converted into one of the best restaurant in the area.
The food and service are impeccable and the atmosphere
sophisticated. Classic music floats across the tables,
when it's warm and the tables are set on the lawn crickets
take over for Vivaldi. The chef is a master at balancing
disparate flavours. He marries the best fresh ingredients.
As many as possible come the hotel's garden and the olive
oil is from the grove that extends down the hillside below.
In warm weather you can dine on the terrace with an ancient
stone fountain at one end and views of the wide Valdichiana.
The restaurant's marvellous menu is complemented by the
wine-list.
*****
|
|
Cortona
|
La
Bottega dell'Oste
Piazza Pescheria 3
0575 630575
Closed Wednesday
|
Above
Cortona's main square, this attractive restaurant is housed
in a 16th century wine cellar. In good weather you can
eat outdoor, overlooking the 13th century town hall and
dining on regional dishes and specialties. Wide selection
of Tuscan wines. This is a good traditional trattoria.
***
|
|
Florence
|
Frescobaldi
Via De' Magazzini 2-4/r
055 284724
Closed Monday, Sunday lunch, August
|
Frescobaldi
family's wine bar and restaurant. Traditional Tuscan cooking.
Fine selection of cheeses and excellent salami. Wine from
the Frescobaldi cellars.
***
|
|
Florence
|
Sabatino
Via Pisana 2
055 225955
Closed Saturday, Sunday
|
Plain
fare trattoria, as in old times, for the folk.
**
|
|
Florence
|
Trattoria
Garga
Via del Moro 48
055 2398898
|
Trattoria
Garga is a mecca for citizen food lovers and renowned
chefs in their own rights, such as the Food Network's
Rachel Ray, who said about Trattoria Garga: "The
more I dine out, the clearer the distinction has become
between good food and soulful food. Garga has a soul all
its own, and the dishes I've eaten here, such as Pasta
Magnifico, Veal with Avocado and the famous cheesecake,
taste of love, passion and curiosity as much as they do
of their ingredients. I dream of this place. Sogni d'oro.
Sweet Dreams.
****
|
|
Florence
|
Latini
Via Palchetti 6
055 210916
Closed Monday
|
This
is a unique spot, where one can still find the original
flavours of a disappearing Tuscany, thanks to the Latini
family's passion for searching out those products that
have always been the region's pride._Il Latini still offers
a convivial Tuscan spirit, where the dining table is a
place to make friends and share common interests. Here,
the wooden tables have witnessed over one-hundred years
of shared hospitality, in a place where important personalities
in the world of culture meet side by side with ordinary
diners. Traditional Tuscan cuisine. Typical atmosphere.
Very good food. Medium price range.
****
|
|
Florence
|
Da
Ruggiero
Via Senese 89
055 220542
Closed Tuesday, Wednesday
|
Very
good cuisine. Medium price range.
***
|
|
Florence
|
La
Baraonda
Via Ghibellina 67 r
055 2341171
Closed Sunday, August
|
Typical
Tuscan charming place with its tile floors that recall
the 1930's and table set with tiny fresh flowers and patterned
plates. It serves home-style Florentine food. Fish also.
Local, national wines.
***
|
|
Florence
|
Da
Mario
Via Rosina 2r
055 218550
Closed Sunday, August. No dinner.
|
A
tiny dining room. Popular lunch. The menu features such
regional classic as ribollita, vegetable soup
and fantastic pasta with hen or rabbit sauce. Tripe -
rabbit - fish and the town's least expensive steak Florentine.
In addition to the decent house Chianti an amazing selection
of heavy hitters at bargain prices.
**
|
|
Florence
|
Taverna
del Bronzino
Via delle Ruote 27 r
055 495220
Closed Sunday, August.
|
Sophisticated
meal in the 16th century renaissance Santi di Tito's
studio (a student of Bronzino). Lots of classic, superb
Tuscan food, however graces and artful menu. A wine list
of solid, affordable choice rounds out the menu. The service
is outstanding. Reservations are advised, especially for
eating at the wine cellar's only table or on the arbour
- shaded patio.
***
|
|
Florence
|
Simon
Boccanegra
Via Ghibellina 124/r
055 2001098
Closed Sunday, August
|
Homed
in a XVI century's palazzo across the street from Teatro
Verdi, this intimate restaurant serves after midnight.
Ceiling are high, and candles on every table cast a romantic
warm glow. The menu although Tuscan is hardly typical
classic. There's heavy emphasis on fish. Home made (pastas,
delicious desserts). Wide selection of olive oil and cheeses.
National wine.
****
|
|
Florence
|
Enoteca
Pinchiarri
Via Ghibellina 87
055 242777
Closed Sunday, August
|
Homed
in the antique noble Giacometti Ciofi palace in Santa
Croce. A sumptuous renaissance palace with high frescoed
ceilings. One of the most refined kitchens and cellars
in Italy, where the food is served in porcelain with silver
tableware and the wine in crystal. The keynote is elegance.
*****
|
|
Florence
|
Cibreo
Via A. del Verrocchio 8/r
055 2341100
Closed Sunday, Monday, August, Christmas time
|
Fabio
Picchi is the chef-owner's restaurant. One of the most
celebrated chefs. This small and elegant restaurant has
achieved a well-deserved international reputation for
street adherence to Florentine tradition. No pasta is
served. They've a high level wine list.
The tiny Trattoria Cibreo on the other hand is like eating
in a friend's kitchen. It takes no reservations. Lower
prices. Trattoria Cibreo, Piazza Ghiberti 35.
****
|
|
Florence
|
Cantinetta
Antinori
Piazza Antinori 3
Closed Saturday, Sunday, August, Christmas
|
The
Antinori marchesi started their wine empire 26 generation
ago, and taking their cue from an ancient vintner tradition-installed
a wine bar in their 15th century palazzo 30 years ago.
Vaulted ceilings subdued décor dark and wood tables
topped with white linen place mats. Ambience of the noble
Antinori family. The menu includes classic dishes and
a few concessions to regulars tired of the old pappa,
as predictable cuisine is described in Florence. Choose
from traditional soups, fresh pastas, stewed meat, simple
salads, salad, cannelloni. The extra-virgin olive oil
and goat cheeses are from the family estate. All the Antinori's
wines are served by the glass as well as the bottle.
****
|
|
Florence
|
Lungarno
Borgo San Jacopo 14
055 27261
Open in the evening
|
An
intimate restaurant bomboniera looking on
the Arno. The menu is classic: fresh fish dishes and Tuscan
specialities. Wine both local and national. Wide selection
of distillati, cheeses and salami.
***
|
|
Florence
|
Loggia
Piazzale Michelangelo 1
055 2342832
|
Famous
restaurant in Firenze with an elegant and charming dining
room and a beautiful loggiato overlooking
Florence. The kitchen is classic and Tuscan. Delicious
their home desserts. Well-chosen wide wine list.
****
|
|
Florence
|
Il
Pizzaiuolo
Via de Macci 113/r
055 241171
Reservations required for dinner
|
Naples-born
Carmine has opened this pizzeria. He has brought with
him that's city ancient trade secrets and the plan for
a huge brick oven. Incredible bubbling pizzas being passed
to and fro, and basil leaves as table centrepieces. Pizza
until midnight.
***
|
|
Florence
|
Vivoli
ice-cream shop
Via Isola delle Stinche 7
055 292334
|
The
best gelateria (ice-cream shops) in town.
It's open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a.m to 1 a.m.
Closed in August.
***
|
|
Florence
|
Night-bar
Beccofino
Piazza degli Scarlatti 1/r
Lungarno Corsini
055 290076
Night-bar Capocaccia
Lungarno Corsini 12-14/r
055 210751
Night-bar Harry's bar
Lungarno Vespucci 22/r
055 2396700
Night-bar Il Caffe
Piazza Pitti 9
055 2396241
Night-bar La dolce Vita
Piazza del Carmine 6/r
055 284595
|
|
|
Gaiole
in Chianti
|
Badia
a Coltibuono
Loc. Badia a Coltibuono
0577 749031
Closed Monday
|
A
perfect stop for lunch while you're exploring Chianti's
wineries, this trattoria's cucina casalinga
(home cooking) can be eaten on a lovely outdoor patio
(seating indoor also). They cook outstanding primi
and succulent mixed grilled meats. Notable is the filetto
al peppe verde (chianina beef in a creamy green-pepper
corn sauce). If you have time dinner right, you might
get to watch a memorable sunset.
***
|
|
Greve
in Chianti
|
Il
Caminetto del Chianti
Loc. Strada in Chianti
Via della Montagnola 52
055 8588909
Closed Tuesday, no lunch Monday, Saturday, July, August
|
Tuscan
fare is served at this small, cozy country restaurant.
The pasta is all homemade. There's a terrace for summer
dining under the shade of lime trees.
**
|
|
Greve
in Chianti
|
Locanda
il Gallo
Loc. Chiocchio
Via Lando Conti 16
055 8572266
Closed Tuesday
|
Terrific
thin-crust pizzas come out of the wood-burning oven at
this informal country restaurant about 4 km north of Greve.
The large dining room have stonewalls and wood-beamed
ceiling, and there's a veranda for dining outside in summer.
**
|
|
Greve
in Chianti
|
Gallo
Nero
Via C. Battisti 9
055 8544802
Closed Sunday
|
Enoteca,
Trattoria and Pizza. Traditional Tuscan cuisine.
**
|
|
Greve
in Chianti
|
La
Cantinetta
Loc. Rignana
055 852601
Closed Tuesday
|
Traditional
Tuscan cuisine
|
|
Greve
in Chianti
|
Taverna
del Guerrino
Loc. Montefioralle
055 853106
Closed Monday, Tuesday
|
Traditional
Tuscan cuisine
|
|
Greve
in Chianti
|
Locanda
Borgo Antico
Loc. Lucolena
055 851024
Closed Tuesday
|
Traditional
Tuscan cuisine
|
|
Greve
in Chianti
|
Le
Cernacchie
Loc. Dudda
La Panca
055 8547968
Closed Monday
|
Traditional
Tuscan cuisine
|
|
Livorno
|
La
Chiave
Scali delle Cantine 52
0586 888609
Closed Wednesday, August
|
Along
the moat surrounding the Fortezza Nuova, Livorno's
finest restaurant has the air of a private club. Rough
brick arches blend with smoothly modern white plaster
walls with Macchiaioli-style painting and R&B music
in the background. The finest seafood restaurant in a
port city renowned prepared fresh-catch of the day or
meat dishes.
****
|
|
Livorno
|
Cantina
Mardi
Via Combini 6/8
0586 808006
Closed Sunday. No dinner
|
It's
only open for lunch and it's well off the beaten path
even if it's very much in the centre of Livorno's shopping
district. But getting here is worth the trouble: this
tiny place, lined with bottles of wine, has a small menu
that changes daily, a superb wine list, and gregarious
staff. Their baccalà alla livornese
/deep-fried salt cool served with chickpeas) is succulently
crisp. Their soup, such as ribollita are very
soothing.
***
|
|
Livorno
|
Gennarino
Via S. Fortunata 11
0586 888093
Closed Wednesday
|
This
is a good classic restaurant-typical Livornese cooking.
They've two homey dining rooms. Traditional savoury. It
serves: fish and meat dishes. Wine from the local and
all over Italy.
***
|
|
Lucca
|
La
Buca di Sant'Antonio
Via della Cervia 3
0583 55881
Closed Monday. No dinner Sunday
|
Since
before 1782 La Bucca has been the premier
gastronomic pit stop inside Lucca's walls. Warm, intimate
interior, lamps and bouquet on the tables. The cooking
is high-toned Tuscan, genuine and delicious. The service
is professional. One of the best restaurants in the region
which has welcomed several well-known personalities. Reservations
are a must.
****
|
|
Lucca
|
Antico
Caffé della Mura
Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 2
0583 467962
Closed Tuesday
|
This
old café serves hearty regional cuisine. Built
atop the city's formidable bastion in 1860, the Antico
Caffé della Mura offers the most elegant dining
in town in an intimate room filled with piano music and
a giant fresco of Lucca's skyline.
***
|
|
Lucca
|
Il
Giglio
Piazza del Giglio 2
0583 494508
Closed Wednesday
|
Just
off Piazza Napoleon, this restaurant has quite, late 19th
century charm and classic cuisine. It's a place for all
season with a big, old fireplace, for chilly weather and
an out door terrace in summer. Local specialities. Good
wine list.
****
|
|
Lucca
|
La
Mora
Loc. Ponte a Moriano
Via Sesto 1748
0583 406402
Closed Wednesday
|
Detour
to this former stagecoach station, now a gracious, rustic
country-inn 9 km north of Lucca for local specialities,
delicious desserts, sweet local oil. Service is elegant
and there's a first-rate wine list.
***
|
|
Montalcino
|
Poggio
Antico
Loc. I Poggi
0577 849200
Closed Monday. No dinner Sunday.
Poggio Antico Cantina
0577 848044
|
The
most refined dining around Montalcino is offered in these
converted stalls surrounded by the vineyards of an award-winning
wine estate. Huge windows fill it with light, and designer
halogen lamps pop out from between the wood beans of the
ceiling. Bouquets of fresh wildflowers sit on each table.
The staff is informative, and the tiny flavoured rolls
are freshly baked. They served Tuscan seasonal cuisine
masterfully interpreted and Poggio Antico estate's Brunello.
****
|
|
Montalcino
|
Enoteca-Osteria
Osticcio
Via Matteotti 23
0577 848271
Closed Sunday. No dinner
|
If
you want to sample the local wine, this is one of the
prettiest places in Montalcino in which to do so. Upon
entering, you descend a curving staircase into a tasting
room complete with rustic wood tables; adjacent is a small
dining area with a splendid view of the hills far below,
and just outside is a lovely little terrace perfect for
sampling Brunello di Montalcino when the weather is warm.
The menu is light and pairs nicely with the wines which
are the main draw.
***
|
|
Montalcino
|
Fattoria
dei Barbi
Loc. Podernovi 170
0577 841200
Closed Wednesday
|
This
rustic taverna of this family-owned wine estate,
which produces excellent Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino,
is set among vineyards and has a large stone fireplace.
The estate produces money of the ingredients used in such
traditional specialties as stracotto nel brunello
(braised beef cooked with beans in Brunello wine).
****
|
|
Montefollonica
|
Fattoria
la Chiusa
Via della Madonnina 88
0577 669668
Closed Tuesday
|
This
is an elegantly rustic restaurant in a handsomely vaulted
old barn. The cooking is fine. Consider one of Tuscan's,
if not Italy's finest restaurant. The wine list is strong
with both Tuscan and international wines.
****
|
|
Montepulciano
|
La
Grotta
Loc. San Bagio
0578 757479
Closed Wednesday
|
This
place has an innocuous entrance that might lead you to
pass right by. Don't - the food is fantastic. The local
wine is on of Italy's finest: vino nobile di Montepulciano.
***
|
|
Monteriggioni
|
Il
Pozzo
Piazza Roma 2
0577 304127
Closed Monday, Sunday evening, July and August
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This
excellent restaurant has a wide selection of wine and
regional gourmet cuisine. Just on the village square,
this rustic and elegant taverna is located in a XIII century's
stables.
***
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Montelupo
|
Osteria
Livornese
Viale Umberti I, 2
0571 542611
Open every day for lunch and dinner
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Very
good family restaurant. Specialty see food. Good price
***
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Montelupo
|
I
Palmenti
Via della Pesa 89
0571 913326
Close Monday
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Restaurant
Pizzeria. Tuscan specialties. Garden terrace
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Montespertoli
|
La
Belle Époque
Loc. Gigliola, Via San Piero in Marcato 234
0571 609063
Closed Monday
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Montespertoli
|
Il
Focolare
Loc. Montagnana
Via Volterrana Nord 145
0571 671132
Closed Monday, Tuesday
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Montespertoli
|
C'era
una volta
Loc. Lucardo
Via Certaldese 9
0571 669578
Closed on Tuesday
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Typical
Tuscan traditional cooking. Excellent cuisine in a family
atmosphere and Tuscan wine list. Beautiful views on the
terrace in summer. Fresh fish on Friday. Reasonable prices.
****
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Montespertoli
|
Artevino
Via S. Sonnino 28
0571 608488
Closed Wednesday, Thursday lunch
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In
Montespertoli city. Refined, small and intimate restaurant.
Reasonable prices.
***
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Montespertoli
|
Trattoria
Montalbino
Loc. Montalbino
Via Trecento 72/74
0571 669161
Closed Monday, Sunday
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Simple
family run tiny place. Speciality truffles.
**
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Montespertoli
|
Trattoria
la Grotte
Loc. Lucardo
Via Certaldese 6
0571 669555
Closed Monday
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Specialty
fish and Pizza.
*
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Panzano
|
Oltre
il giardino
Piazza Bucciarelli 42
055 852828
Closed Monday
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This
ancient stone house has a tasteful dining area with a
large terrace and spectacular views of the valley. The
menu captures a little more fantasy than typical Tuscan
cuisine. On weekends reservations are a must.
***
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Passignano
|
La
Scuderia
055 8071623
Closed Thursday
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Across
the street from the Badia a Passignano, this
traditional restaurant specialize in Tuscan country cooking,
especially roast chicken and duck and stewed rabbit. And
when you ask for a house wine, that's literally what you're
getting: the owner make their own. Reserve if you want
eat here on Sunday.
***
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Pienza
|
Osteria
Sette di Vino
Piazza di Spagna 1
0578 749092
Closed Wednesday
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Tasty
dishes based on the local cheeses are the specialty at
this simple and inexpensive osteria set on
a quiet and pleasant square in the center of Pienza. Try
various versions of pici, or the starter of
radicchio baked quickly to brown at the edges.
The local specialty pecorino grigliata con pancetta
(grilled cheeses with unsmoked cured bacon) is divine,
as is the pecorino tasting menu.
**
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Pienza
|
Dal
Falco
Piazza Dante Alighierri 7
0578 748551
Closed Friday
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It
serves house delicacies in a family atmosphere.
**
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Pisa
|
Osteria
del Cavalieri
Via San Frediano 16
050 580858
Closed Sunday, August
|
Lodged
in a medieval tower this charming white wall restaurant,
a few steps from Piazza dei Cavalieri, is reason enough
to come to Pisa. Exquisitely grilled fish dishes, tagliata
for meat lovers. You've eaten like a king at plebeian
prices. Tuscan and National wines.
***
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Pisa
|
Antica
trattoria da Bruno
Via Bianchi 12
050 560818
|
The
décor is typical cluttered trattoria. The status
is: a restaurant through its years of deserved success.
It specializes in tried and true Pisano dishes.
**
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Pisa
|
Al
ristoro dei vecchi macelli
Via Volturno 49
050 20424
Closed Wednesday
|
This
is Pisa's finest restaurant, excelling at both fish and
meat dishes but always local Tuscan at heart. The room
has low subdued lighting, an old wooden ceiling, terracotta
floors and walls lined with stylish black and white photographs.
***
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Pisa
|
Trattoria
San Omobono
Piazza San Omobono 6
050 540847
Closed Sunday, August
|
Around
a column surviving from the medieval church that once
stood here, locals gather to enjoy authentic Pisa home
cooking. The way mamma used to make it.
**
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Pistoia
|
San
Jacopo
Via Crispi 15
0573 27786
Closed Monday
|
This
charming restaurant minutes from the Piazza del Duomo
has white walls, tile floor. The menu has mostly regional
favourites such as the maccheroni San Jacopo - wide ribbons
of house made pasta in a duck sauce, but the restaurant
can turn out perfectly grilled squid as well. Delicious
dessert.
***
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Pistoia
|
Piteccio
Via di Villa 6
0573 42031
Closed Sunday, only dinner
|
In
an old Tuscan Villa (dated XVIII century) with garden
and terrace. Charming, sophisticated. Fireplace in dinning
room. Mobili d'epoca. The cooking is traditional.
***
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Porto
Ercole
|
Ristorante
Gambero Rosso
Lungomare Andrea Doria
0564 832650
Closed Wednesday
|
Right
on the port, this excellent restaurant is a seaside Italian
classic. The menu is a simple preparation of fresh fish
drawn for local waters. Try the house speciality, different
fish dishes prepared in a variety of ways. It's better
if you enjoy it on the terrace with a view.
***
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Porto
Ercole
|
La
Fontanina di San Pietro
Via del Campone
0564 825261
Closed Wednesday
|
The
scene is romantic, with grape vines climbing on a trellis
and cherry trees in a country setting overlooking the
port. Dine fresh fish while enjoying a fruity white from
the well-chosen wine list.
***
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Prato
|
Osvaldo
Baroncelli
Via Ira Bartolomeo 13
0574 23810
Closed Sunday. No lunch Saturday
|
Modern-elegant
restaurant in the centre of Prato. Tuscan cuisine. Good
wine list.
***
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Radda
in Chianti
|
Al
Chiasso dei Portici
Chiasso dei Portici 10
0577 738774
Closed Tuesday. No lunch
|
The
old Vigna Vecchia cellars homed this homey
and charming restaurant. In the centre of Radda. Two little
dining rooms. In summer you can dine in the garden. They
serve traditional cooking from Chianti. Wine from Chianti
area and national.
***
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Radda
in Chianti
|
La
Bottega di Carla
Loc. Volpaia
Piazza della Torre 2
0577 738001
Closed Tuesday. No dinner
|
In
the central piazza of Volpaia, this place has a seemingly
hidden upstairs dining rooms. When it's warm opt for an
outside seat on a terrace teeming with flowers. You'll
get a nice view of Radda too. Carla cooks sublime primi
and she has a deft touch with such Tuscan specialities
as cinghiale (wild boar) and rabbit.
***
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San
Casciano
|
La
Biscondola
Loc. Mercatale
055 821381
Closed Monday, Tuesday lunch
|
Open-air
restaurant in the wood near San Casciano. Tuscan specialities
and classic-local wine. Best steak alla fiorentina.
***
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San
Giminiano
|
Dorando
Vicolo dell'Oro 2
0577 941862
Closed Monday
|
The
Dorando is an elegant splurge tucked away
just off Piazza Duomo, where the stonewalled rooms, alabaster
platters and knowledgeable waiters create a backdrop for
San Giminiano's best dining. The menu doesn't just list
dishes but describe each one's history in detail as the
chef attempts to keep the oldest traditions of Sangiminiese
cooking alive. Money of the dishes purport to be medieval
some even Etruscan, in origin - while balancing nouvelle
cuisine philosophy with hearty home cooking quality. Dishes
vary with the season and market. The desserts are excellent.
***
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|
San
Giminiano
|
Le
Terrazze
Piazza della Cisterna 24
0577 940328
Closed Tuesday. No lunch
|
Seasonal
Tuscan classic are prepared and served at this inn in
the heart of San Giminiano. A charming view of the countryside
and specialties like handmade pastas, a variety of grilled
mushrooms and grilled meats are in store.
**
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San
Miniato
|
Il
Convio Maiano
Via San Maiano 2
0571 408114
Closed Wednesday
|
This
is a homey-rustic restaurant homed in an old and charming
Tuscan farmhouse. They serve traditional Tuscan cuisine:
truffles, wild boar, and vegetables Florentine steak.
Special home made desserts, olive oil from the estate.
Local wines.
**
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Siena
|
Al
Marsili
Via del Castore 3
0577 47154
Closed Monday
|
Under
the broad brick-vaulted ceilings of this 900-years old
Etruscan wine cellar, you'll choose from marvellous Tuscan
and Italian specialties among them homemade pastas such
as tortelloni burro e salvia. The wine list
is includes stars from the nearby Chianti country. Al
Marsili's soft yellow plaster walls are pocketed
with a few very private alcoves. This is the most elegant
place in town, complete with bow-tied waiters and a very
well chosen, if pricey wine lists.
****
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Siena
|
Guido
Viccolo Pettinaio 7
0577 280042
Closed Wednesday
|
The
most genuine cuisine.
***
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Siena
|
Al
Mangia
Piazza del Campo 42
0577 281121
Closed Wednesday
|
Its
location on the Piazza del Campo makes it worth the visit,
but it's not a tourist trap. Traditional cuisine and well-chosen
wine list.
***
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Siena
|
Osteria
le Logge
Via del Porrione 33
0577 48013
Closed Sunday
|
In
a former grocer's quite stylish, Siena's most accommodation
staff, serves some of the city's finest food. They take
pride in their die-hard Tuscan dishes and urge you to
try their traditional specialties. There're rustic dining
rooms on two level. We recommend you to book if you want
to be in the more pleasant of the down-stairs rooms. There're
also out door sets from June to October.
****
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Siena
|
Antica
Osteria da Divo
Via Franciosa 25/29
0577 284381
Open daily noon
|
This
former trattoria has gone midscale and greatly improved
its menu to offer excellent innovative dishes rooted in
Sienese traditions in a classy, but not frosty atmosphere
of soft jazz. The main dining room is a medieval mélange
of stone-brick wood supports and naked rock, while the
room in back and in the basement are actually Etruscan
tombs carved from the tufo.
***
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Siena
|
Antica
trattoria Botteganova
Via Chiantigiana 29
0577 284230
|
Just
outside the city walls along the road that leads north
to Chianti, the Botteganova is arguably the
best restaurant in Siena. Chef Michele Sorrentino's cooking
is all about clean flavours, balanced combinations, and
inviting presentation. Look for inspiring dishes such
as spaghetti alla chitarra in salsa di astice piccante
(spaghetti with a spicy lobster sauce). The interior with
high vaulting is relaxed yet classy, and the service is
first rate. This very pleasant restaurant is worth the
trip: the cuisine and service are meticulously well done.
****
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|
Tavarnelle
Val di Pesa
|
La
Fattoria
Via del Cerro 11
055 8070000
Closed Tuesday
|
Very
good
food. Typical Tuscan countryside atmosphere, nice ambience,
very fashioned. Warm and spacious restaurant, once an
old farmhouse.
****
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|
Tavarnelle
Val di Pesa
|
La
Gramola
Via delle Fonti 1
055 8050321
Closed Tuesday
|
Traditional
Tuscan cuisine
**
|
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Tavarnelle
Val di Pesa
|
Osteria
di Passignano
Via Badia 33
055 8071278
Closed Sunday
|
Traditional
Tuscan cuisine
|
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Tavarnelle
Val di Pesa
|
Borgo
antico
Via Roma 55
055 8076180
Closed Wednesday
|
Some
restaurant have wine tasting, this one offers olive oil
tasting during the olive harvest season (usually in October
and November). The owner keeps several bottles of locally
produced extra-virgin olive oil for you to sample. All
the pasta is made in house. The ravioli con melone
(sauced with creamy cantaloupe) is one of the prize choices
and the desserts will probably stay in your memory for
quite a while, especially the tart lavished with figs
and hazelnut.
***
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|
Viagreggio
|
Romano
Via Mazzini 122
0584 31382
Closed Monday
|
Here,
in the heart of Viareggio, this part of call cannot to
be avoided by the lovers of fish cuisine. The secret of
this sparkling cuisine, rich in aroma, lies in giving
absolute priority to the freshness and availability of
ingredients, which is then enhanced with passionate creativity
in a thrilling crescendo of aromas and flavours. The menu
is embellished by a wine list of great value thanks to
a painstaking and original research.
****
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Viagreggio
|
Gran
Café Margherita
Lungomare Margherita 30
0584 962553
Closed Sunday
|
Oriental
style architecture for the façade, art nouveau
for the interior, a café that has regained all
its former splendour and a restaurant serving high-quality
classical cuisine.
***
|
|
Volterra
|
Etruria
Piazza dei Priori 8
0588 86064
Closed Thursday
|
The
only worthwhile restaurant inside Volterra's walls sits
in a former palazzo on the magnificent town square. Delicious,
highly flavoured cooking, such as the recipes with wild
boar in season.
***
|
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Volterra
|
Beppino
Via delle Prigioni 13/21
0588 86051
Closed Wednesday
|
Traditional
Trattoria in the historical centre. Beppino
serves homey and simple traditional cuisine using genuine
and local products. Home made pasta. Pizzeria. An outdoor
terrace in summer time.
**
|
Contact for Villa Tuscany rental
info@villa-tuscany.it
Yves Lebreton. Villa Tuscany. Via Casciani 3. 50025 Montespertoli
- FI - Italy
tel. +39 0571 608891 - fax. +39 0571 609580 - mob. 3471098318
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